Link Coppied
As Lennertson prepares to release a stunning new version of their flagship boot, 'The Chieftain,' we sat down with co-founder and designer Robin Carlo to dive into the history, evolution, and artistry behind this iconic lace-up design.
Q: Where did the inspiration for 'The Chieftain' come from?
RC: It all started with a sketch on paper. It was the very first shoe design I ever worked on, and I knew from the start it had to embody our brand philosophy of 'rugged refined.' I wanted it to feel bold yet balanced—a statement piece that still felt understated.
Q: What was the design process like?
RC: Long and iterative! I experimented with details like broguing early on but eventually decided to go for a plain toe. That choice allowed the sleek shape of our Michael last to shine. My co-founder, Robin Todde, also had a significant influence. Our tastes were more divergent back then—he leans minimalist and modern, while I'm drawn to heritage and ornate details. I made it a personal challenge to create something that would sit balanced in the middle of this field of tension. I wanted to create something both of us could love, which pushed me to focus on subtle yet unique details.
(The Michael boot last during development)
Q: Can you tell us about those unique details?
RC: Sure. You'll notice two parallel stitching lines spaced apart on the side panels, or 'quarters.' Typically, those lines would frame decorative broguing, which is the only reason one would add this kind of stitch detail. But here, I deleted the broguing—it's a "design by subtraction" approach. Then, the way that the outer edges of the quarter act like a picture frame to the inner part that's stitched beneath it, creating a sense of depth. The edges are serrated, like in a brogue shoe, but this time not because I had broguing details earlier on that I deleted; I purposely added the serration because it creates a thicker and heavier shadow to the lines, which in turn increases that sense of depth: of that panel lying further in.
It's a slight touch but gives The Chieftain its distinctive character.
Q: How do you balance ruggedness and refinement in the design?
RC: It's all about the interplay between elements. The Michael Last is sleek yet sturdy; the brass eyelets and speed hooks add a rugged touch, but the overall silhouette feels refined. The leather also plays a huge role. For example, the new Walnut brown oil-tanned leather looks noble, but it's tough as nails. It ages with a raw, rugged patina—scuffs, marbling, and creases that tell a story.
Q: Speaking of the new leather, what makes it special?
RC: The Walnut leather has this beautiful pull-up effect—when you flex or bend it, the color lightens, revealing depth and richness. It's a crowd favorite on our Rider Chelsea boots, so we knew it would look incredible on The Chieftain. But I'll be honest, it's not for everyone. Some customers don't read the info and expect it to behave like a burnished calfskin, but this leather is designed to develop character with wear. It creates a hyperbolic wear pattern of noticeable scuffs and marbling creases, compared to a standard fine calfskin that maintains a more static and flat appearance. It's a feature, not a flaw, and that's what makes it so unique.
(The Rider Chelsea boot in Walnut)
Q: Has The Chieftain evolved since its debut?
RC: Yes. When we launched in 2022, the design was already solid, but some customers with slim legs mentioned that the top edge felt slightly loose. We adjusted the pattern to improve the fit without compromising flexibility. That tiny tweak also enhanced the boot's silhouette. It's incredible how much a small change can impact three dimensional design.
Q: What's new about this upcoming version?
RC: This time, we've paired the Walnut leather with a dark brown "antique" welt for a more single-toned, elegant look. It's the first Chieftain on a studded sole, which adds a touch of sophistication. The leather's character really shines—it grabs attention with its depth and texture while keeping the overall design grounded and balanced.
Q: What's the story behind the height of the boot?
RC: Funny you ask—it's technically not a "6-inch boot," even though it's often grouped into that category. During the design process, Todde and I decided to lower the height slightly. While working in Adobe Illustrator, we just instinctively grabbed the top line and dragged it down—it redistributed the visual weight in a way that felt more balanced and visually striking. Sometimes, modern tools give you happy accidents like that.
Although the design starts with pencil on paper, digitizing it leaves a lot of room for playing with the proportions.
Q: Will The Chieftain always be available?
RC: As with most of our styles, this run is fairly limited. We do plan to restock, but when a size sells out, it could take some time before it's back. So, if you're eyeing a pair, don't wait too long!
Q: Any other Chieftain variations in the works?
RC: Yes! We're replenishing all sizes of our current make-ups and bringing back the original handpainted Tan version with scotch grain detail in the quarters. That was a customer favorite when we launched. After some challenges sourcing the right leather (unfortunately, a lot of tanneries in Europe are shutting down), we're finally restarting production on that one. Look out for its return, probably this April, with some subtle modifications.
The tan version of the Chieftain, a crowd favorite, is coming back and is estimated to drop in spring 2025.
