Welcome to Lennertson's Glossary of Shoe Terms, your go-to resource for understanding the terminology behind premium footwear craftsmanship. Whether you're a seasoned collector, a first-time buyer, or simply exploring the world of well-made shoes, this guide explains the materials, construction methods, and design details that make quality shoes worth the investment. Use this glossary to expand your knowledge and shop smarter for long-lasting, stylish footwear.

A

Aglet:

The small hardened tip at the end of a shoelace, preventing it from fraying and making it easier to lace your shoes.

Aniline Leather:

High-quality leather dyed with soluble dyes that preserve the natural grain, texture, and markings of the hide.

B

Blake Stitch Construction:

A shoe construction method where the outsole is stitched directly to the insole, resulting in a sleek profile and lightweight feel. Not great for rainy weather: as the stitches can soak up water straight to the inside of the shoe.
Often, Blake stitched shoes will have a row of fake stitches on the top side of the sole's edge, which goes around the shoe. Do not confuse this with a true Goodyear welt construction.

Discover the difference between these construction methods:

Blucher:

A style of shoe with open lacing, where the quarters (side panels) are small, creating a wholecut shoe otherwise. Our Brawler shoe is a blucher pattern.

 

Brogueing:

Ornamental perforations and serrations on leather shoes, typically seen on brogues, wingtip, and Derby styles. Our Brawler shoe is a brogue shoe.

 

C

Calf Leather:

Leather sourced from calves, prized for its fine grain, softness, and durability, commonly used in dress shoes. There are many different quality grades in calf leather. We opt for uncorrected grain that does not have an artificial coating but shows the true grain structure of the hide.

 

Cemented Construction:

A cheap shoemaking method where the outsole is glued to the upper. Cemented shoes are considered the lowest quality level of shoe construction, will break the fastest, and are primarily non-repairable.
Often, cemented shoes will have a row of fake stitches on the top side of the sole's edge, which goes around the shoe. Do not confuse this with a true Goodyear welt construction.

Discover the difference between these construction methods:

Chrome Tanning:

A tanning process using chromium salts, which produces supple, durable leather with excellent water resistance. Chrome tanning has a less favorable reputation as being toxic and harmful to the environment. However the reality is much more nuanced. Chrome tanning in Europe is heavily regulated, and toxic chromiums are outlawed. Tanning batches are continuously reused and not wasted into the environment. European chrome tanning has been reported to use less water than vegetable tanning.

Combination Tanning:

A leather-tanning technique blending chrome and vegetable tanning, sometimes oil-tanning, for a balance of flexibility and strength.

 

Cork:

A natural material used in Goodyear Welted shoes to fill the cavity between the insole and outsole. It molds to the wearer's foot over time, enhancing comfort and fit.

Cordovan:

A luxurious, high-gloss leather made from horsehide, known for its durability, water resistance, and rich patina (and its expensive price tag).

D

Derby:

A style of shoe featuring open lacing, where the eyelet tabs are sewn on top of the vamp, offering more flexibility and room. Our Kaiser shoe is a derby pattern.

 

 

Double Row Stitchdown:

A rugged shoe construction method with two visible rows of stitching securing the upper to the sole, providing extra strength and durability.

E

Eyelets:

Small reinforced holes, often metal or stitched, through which laces are threaded to secure the shoe on the foot.

F

Footbed:

The inner sole of a shoe that provides support and cushioning for the foot, often contoured or padded for additional comfort.

Full-Grain Leather:

The highest quality leather, retaining the natural grain and imperfections, offering superior durability and patina development. Online you'll find many articles dividing leather grades between terms like 'full-grain,' 'top-grain,' 'genuine,' etc... these are, however, non-scientific terms and not used by professionals in the leather industry.

 

 

G

Goodyear Welt Construction:

The premium shoemaking method where a welt (a strip of leather) is stitched to both the upper and the insole, with the outsole stitched separately. This method allows for easy resoling and long-term wear.
Most of our shoes are built in this method. 

Discover the difference between these construction methods:

Grain Leather:

Leather that retains a slightly enlarged visual grain pattern, often treated or polished for texture and visual appeal.

 

I

Insole:

The interior layer of a shoe where the foot rests, often cushioned or contoured to improve comfort and support. Leather insoles are preferable as they are healthy for foot hygiene.

Instep:

The arched part on top of the foot between the toes and ankle, critical for ensuring proper shoe fit and comfort.

L

Last:

A 3D model of a foot used in shoemaking to shape the upper and determine the final fit and silhouette of the shoe.

Lining:

The inner layer of material in a shoe, often synthetic fabric on modern and cheap quality shoes. We use leather lining; designed for comfort, moisture absorption, and breathability.

M

Moccasin Construction:

A shoemaking technique where the leather upper wraps around the foot and is stitched to the sole, creating a flexible and casual style.

Monk Strap:

A shoe design featuring a strap and buckle closure instead of traditional laces, offering a unique blend of formal and casual aesthetics.

N

Norwegian Construction:

A durable and water-resistant construction method involving visible stitching around the sole and upper, often used in tradtional outdoor footwear.

Nubuck:

A type of leather with a velvety surface, created by sanding the outer layer of the hide, prized for its soft touch and durability.

P

Polished Binder Leather:

Corrected-grain leather with a glossy, smooth finish achieved through artificial coatings. We're not a fan of these leathers; basically, they are plastic-coated and do not age well.

Pull-Up Leather:

A type of leather treated with oils and waxes that develops lighter shades when stretched, revealing a rich and dynamic patina over time.

Q

Quarter:

The rear section of a shoe's upper, covering the sides and back of the foot, and often connected to the heel counter.

S

Scotch Grain Leather:

A textured leather with a pebble-grain pattern, used in both formal and semi-casual footwear.

 

Shank:

A supportive structure, often metal, wood, or fiberglass, embedded in the sole of a shoe to provide arch support and stability.

Stitchdown Construction:

A method where the edges of the upper are flared out and stitched to the midsole, offering durability and a unique, rugged appearance.

Suede:

Leather with a soft, napped surface, made from the underside of the hide, offering a casual and luxurious feel.

 

T

Toe Cap:

A reinforced or decorative piece of leather on the front of the shoe, common in Oxfords, brogues, and boots.

Toe Puff / Toe Stiffener:

A rigid material inserted in the toe area of a shoe to maintain its shape and add structure.

Tumbled Leather:

Leather that has been mechanically softened for a more pliable, slightly textured finish.

V

Vegetable Tanning:

A traditional leather tanning process using natural tannins from plants, resulting in durable leather with rich, earthy tones.

Veldschoen Construction:

A robust shoemaking method where the upper leather folds outward and is stitched to the midsole, providing excellent water resistance and rugged style.

W

Welt:

A strip of leather or synthetic material stitched between the upper and outsole, essential in constructions like Goodyear Welt and Norwegian.

Wingtip:

A decorative shoe style featuring a wing-shaped toe cap with brogue perforations, often paired with formal or semi-casual attire. Our Kaiser shoe has a wingtip pattern.

Discover More

At Lennertson, we honor these time-tested materials and techniques, bringing you expertly crafted shoes designed to last for years. Explore our collection today and step into timeless style.